If your cantilever brakes have an external return spring then it can be easier to position the pads if you unhook the spring first; the arm won’t then fight you as you’re trying to line up the. This is causing the brakes to be uncentered and impossible to adjust properly. The only way I can make the brakes work properly, and keep the straddle cable carrier centered, is to increase the tension on the right spring by moving it to the top hole.
Hey guys, I bought a Diamondback RCX at a bargain price I could not refuse. It is equipped with stock Tektro CR710 brakes, 32c kenda small block 8's. One issue I have is that I can't remove the rear wheel without deflating the tire, because the seatstays prevent the brakes from opening all the way. I'm planning on racing cyclocross with the bike when the season comes around (eventually) I guess I have several questions: Was someone sleeping when welding the tubes together? Is this a defect/flaw inherent in the design?
Was this influenced by the size of the frame (50cm/small)? Any brakes that could let me work around this seatstay clearance issue? Thanks, James dabac 02-05-14 11:48 PM.
If you think that this bike was really designed with serious racing in mind. The brake/pad/stay issue wa a result of many factors, least of which was not loosing a podium because of a slow wheel change.
Well, I haven't actually raced cyclocross before (yes, letting the cat out of the bag) but normally, would you only change a tire/tube when it's flat, or would you swap different wheelsets depending on the condition of the race? Right now: the situation is that I can remove the wheel if the tire is flat, if the tire is filled with air, it won't be able to clear the limited space between brake pad and tire (due to the narrow seatstays which are in the way of the brake pads). Hopefully the poor quality pictures illustrate the issue.
HillRider 02-06-14 07:12 AM. Well, I haven't actually raced cyclocross before (yes, letting the cat out of the bag) but normally, would you only change a tire/tube when it's flat, or would you swap different wheelsets depending on the condition of the race? Well, I too don't race these days. But I do race support with our shop team as needed.
So here's my take on the wheel changing during the race issue. The serious guys have a back up bike. But they also don't tend to make tire choices that are too wrong either. Although often the back up bike has different tires on it as it usually has clinchers, and sometimes worn out ones at that. The rest (and this is most) might have a spare set of wheels (many don't) and are racing for fitness not placing. So if they get a flat their day is done unless it's real early in the race. Either way a fast wheel change won't make the difference in their finishing order.
I'll end with the comment that the softer tire pressures (25-35lbs) that are used during actual racing usually allow enough tire compression to still push a tire past tight pads. Fietsbob 02-06-14 10:28 AM. Ah picture in 4th post. Toe of pad is inside the frame tube. Physical interference. Yea as is, just let the air out, you wanted to avoid it, but a puncture will make that choice for you, mend the puncture, Re-install the wheel, then pump it up.
Other thoughts: You might find a different brake caliper that sets the brake pad further aft and so clears the seat stay. Or, maybe instead of the lovely Koolstop Triple compound replaceable insert pad. Get a cheaper Molded on the bolt brake shoe and saw it off shorter. Running without a pit bike and helper, a puncture will drop you a Lap + out of any meaningful place anyhow. Maybe this will be that Pit bike and your shopping education has given you insight on what your prime bike needs. Barrettscv 02-06-14 10:35 AM. You can create some extra tire clearance by using Kool Stop Thinline pads.
The Thinline pad was designed for brake systems with tight brake clearance and for easy tire removal. This pad has a hardened rigid internal backbone that helps pack a lot of performance into a small space. Features: Low Profile Hardened and Plated reinforced steel backbone Patented Angled tip plow Water grooves Knurl-lock™ washer system Self toe in Available in Threaded and 2024 Aluminum Smooth Post I use these on all my CX bikes, highly recommended; fietsbob 02-06-14 10:47 AM. You can create some extra tire clearance by using Kool Stop Thinline pads. The Thinline pad was designed for brake systems with tight brake clearance and for easy tire removal. This pad has a hardened rigid internal backbone that helps pack a lot of performance into a small space.
Features: Low Profile Hardened and Plated reinforced steel backbone Patented Angled tip plow Water grooves Knurl-lock™ washer system Self toe in Available in Threaded and 2024 Aluminum Smooth Post I use these on all my CX bikes, highly recommended; I'll look into different pad/brake combos. Currently have a pair of Avid Shorty Ultimates coming in (amazon warehouse had a good buy) if it doesn't fit, it'll be back to the drawing board. Well, I too don't race these days. But I do race support with our shop team as needed.
So here's my take on the wheel changing during the race issue. The serious guys have a back up bike. But they also don't tend to make tire choices that are too wrong either. Although often the back up bike has different tires on it as it usually has clinchers, and sometimes worn out ones at that. The rest (and this is most) might have a spare set of wheels (many don't) and are racing for fitness not placing. So if they get a flat their day is done unless it's real early in the race. Either way a fast wheel change won't make the difference in their finishing order.
I'll end with the comment that the softer tire pressures (25-35lbs) that are used during actual racing usually allow enough tire compression to still push a tire past tight pads. Yeah, I'm going to join a couple cyclocross races for fun and fitness, still have a lot to learn, dismount, remount, off pavement handling etc. I would just call it a day if I have a flat, or limp back and swap in the flat stock wheels, and reinflate afterwards. Ah picture in 4th post. Toe of pad is inside the frame tube. Physical interference.
Yea as is, just let the air out, you wanted to avoid it, but a puncture will make that choice for you, mend the puncture, Re-install the wheel, then pump it up. Other thoughts: You might find a different brake caliper that sets the brake pad further aft and so clears the seat stay. Or, maybe instead of the lovely Koolstop Triple compound replaceable insert pad. Get a cheaper Molded on the bolt brake shoe and saw it off shorter. Running without a pit bike and helper, a puncture will drop you a Lap + out of any meaningful place anyhow. Maybe this will be that Pit bike and your shopping education has given you insight on what your prime bike needs.
It's my first cyclocross bike, so I think it'll serve it's entire life as a training steed. Not too shabby, even if it has a quirk with the seatstay clearance. Thanks for all the input guys. Bobotech 02-06-14 02:24 PM. Would running a wider rim help?
I have the same issue on one of my bikes but it really isn't a big deal since I only use the bike for pleasure but I do have a set of 700x36c tires on a very narrow rim with a very pronounced light bulb profile. I have thought that if I were to use a wider rim, the light bulb profile would be much less pronounced and then I could use the thin cup washers on the brake pad post on the wheel side which would allow the pads to be further out. Then I thought that if I released the brake cable, I would have enough clearance. I haven't done this because its not really important to me but I think it might help. Buffalowings 02-06-14 02:26 PM.
Would running a wider rim help? I have the same issue on one of my bikes but it really isn't a big deal since I only use the bike for pleasure but I do have a set of 700x36c tires on a very narrow rim with a very pronounced light bulb profile. I have thought that if I were to use a wider rim, the light bulb profile would be much less pronounced and then I could use the thin cup washers on the brake pad post on the wheel side which would allow the pads to be further out. Then I thought that if I released the brake cable, I would have enough clearance. I haven't done this because its not really important to me but I think it might help.